A delicate cuisine of sensitively transformed local products that’s warm and inviting.
With Noël Bérard, who has worked at Les Crayères in Reims,
Le Petit Nice in Marseille and in Hong Kong,
time has done its work.

More spontaneity is needed. Openness too.

A delicate cuisine of sensitively transformed local products that’s warm and inviting. With Noël Bérard, who has worked at Les Crayères in Reims,  Le Petit Nice in Marseille and in Hong Kong, time has done its work.

More spontaneity is needed. Openness too.

What are your inspirations?

The terroir! It marks the passing of each season. Villelaure asparagus, truffles from the market in Carpentras, lambs from Sisteron, trout from La Sorgue, and the first-harvest olive oil from Les-Baux-de-Provence – there are so many fine local ingredients available, which we carefully prepare, without messing around with them. I usually do this directly in the frying pan or on a gentle heat at the side of the stove.

The terroir! It marks the passing of each season. Villelaure asparagus, truffles from the market in Carpentras, lambs from Sisteron, trout from La Sorgue, and the first-harvest olive oil from Les-Baux-de-Provence – there are so many fine local ingredients available, which we carefully prepare, without messing around with them. I usually do this directly in the frying pan or on a gentle heat at the side of the stove.

Is yours a traditional approach?

Partly, yes. Our ancestors would cook using whatever the local land gave them, which is the kind of common sense we need today. In this respect, my time at Les Crayères in Reims, working alongside Philippe Mille, and at Le Petit Nice in Marseille, were really helpful. The times we live in also call for a form of modesty. I think the time has passed for dishes that are like works of art with a cold, icy beauty; we need more spontaneity and openness. That’s a lesson I learned from my five years in Hong-Kong working at Michelin-starred establishments. I’m not talking about fusion, of course, but rather unconventional “delicacies”: garlicky octopus with wild thyme or cinnamon shortbread on preserved melon.

Partly, yes. Our ancestors would cook using whatever the local land gave them, which is the kind of common sense we need today. In this respect, my time at Les Crayères in Reims, working alongside Philippe Mille, and at Le Petit Nice in Marseille, were really helpful. The times we live in also call for a form of modesty. I think the time has passed for dishes that are like works of art with a cold, icy beauty; we need more spontaneity and openness. That’s a lesson I learned from my five years in Hong-Kong working at Michelin-starred establishments. I’m not talking about fusion, of course, but rather unconventional “delicacies”: garlicky octopus with wild thyme or cinnamon shortbread on preserved melon.