Chef's portrait Anthony Bisquerra


Filled with sensitivity and passion, Anthony Bisquerra’s approach has evolved along with himself. It has been shaped by his meetings. We look back with the chef of L’Alpaga at the experiences that have marked him and the lessons he has drawn from them.

“I’m not here simply to serve up dishes;
I’m here to tell a story and convey emotions.
Now more than ever...”
Where did your passion for cookery begin?
Where did your passion for cookery begin?

It is linked with the past. When I was young, I spent my holidays with my grandparents near Périgueux. They had a vegetable garden, hens, rabbits and lambs, which I looked after all day long. I was taken with a desire to highlight these beautiful ingredients, with devotion and humility. A career as a chef was the only one for me. Having a father in the military made this all the more true. The order and hierarchy suited me.

Where has your career taken you?

During my early years working at a family-run hotel-restaurant in Vendays-Montalivet, Les Sources De Caudalie in Martillac, the Sofitel in Bordeaux-Lac and Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle, I was shaped by my mentor, Gilles Bernaud, the realisation that I needed to tell a story, meeting my partner, Anne-Sophie Vincent, and a deep respect for ingredients. My path has not been as linear as it may appear. Each time, I had to open my eyes, rethink what I was doing and make a new start... They were all lessons that still serve me today.

And what is your view of cuisine?

I’m always guided first and foremost by plants and vegetables; the meat and fish then follow. The times we live in call for common sense. Particularly the rural wisdom my grandparents passed down to me. They also call for comfort. It’s up to us to listen to them and reappraise the way we do things, the way we are. In the kitchens, this involves a coherent approach between Le Bistrot de L'Alpaga and La Table de L’Alpaga, with more efficient management of ingredients, while adopting a style that is familiar to our guests. For example, why not offer a slice of traditional custard tart and strawberry purée here, a two-star version of it there, and a whole tart to share in the chalets?  The staff in the dining room and reception also have a part to play in supporting our approach and serving our guests better than ever before.